The strong-growing varieties can be grown as cordons if the site is warm and the soil good. The rows have to be 6 feet apart and the cordons 10 feet apart in the rows. The cordons are trained horizontally and thus stakes and wiring must be provided. Under this system a stake with a minimum diameter of 3 inches, and preferably chestnut, should, when 2 feet of its base has been thoroughly treated with Cuprinol, be driven into the ground securely so that the top is 2 feet 3 inches above soil level.
They could also be grown on the ‘Grow as you like’ system, being allowed to scramble over a trellis or cover a fence or wall. Under this system very little pruning is necessary, though it does pay to cut back the fruiting laterals in the summer at two leaves above a bunch.
Once again the vine is allowed to grow naturally the first year and then it is cut down to within two buds of its base. The strongest of the shoots that result is kept and is tied perpendicularly to a stout bamboo cane. All side growths that develop are pinched out with the thumb and forefinger to their base. When all the leaves have fallen, the long cane should first of all be tied to the stake and then should be carefully bent so that it can be tied along the lower wire. This bending of the cane, at an angle of 90 degrees, is important because the flow of sap is checked.
Do not, however, allow 12 rods to be produced or you may not be able to ripen the fruit. Stick to 6 or 7 rods tied to strong bamboos or stakes to form a goblet and gradually these shoots will bear more bunches of grapes up to, say, 8 per rod. Do not be tempted to reduce the pruning by cutting say to 5 buds, and do not be tempted either to try and make the vine crop more heavily.
Each of these laterals is allowed to bear one bunch of fruit this season. As the cordon is to remain tied horizontally to the lower wire, these laterals are pruned back in January to within one plump bud of their base. This bud, of course, will grow the next spring and once again the lateral will be trained upwards and tied to the top wire. This next year it will probably bear two good bunches and the year after maybe three bunches. From then on the crop will be three or four bunches per lateral.
This method is not suitable for varieties producing very thin canes or for those which bear the best fruit at the end of very long canes.
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